| SAFETY & PROTECTION |
|
|
|
| Sunday, 13 September 2009 00:37 | |||||||||||||||||
|
Preventing Home Fires: Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters Newer Hair Dryers Prevent Electrocutions Use a Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter With Electric Heaters in the Bathroom Install Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs Use a Ground-Fault Circuit-interrupter With Every Power Tool Metal Ladders and Electricity Don't Mix
Consumer Product Safety CommissionPreventing Home Fires: Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) |
THE STATISTICSThe U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSO) estimates that each year, about 4,000 injuries associated with electric extension cords are treated in hospital emergency rooms. About half the injuries involve fractures, lacerations, contusions, or sprains from people tripping over extension cords. Thirteen percent of the injuries involve children under-five years of age; electrical burns to the mouth accounted for half the injuries to young children.CPSC also estimates that about 3,300 residential fires originate in extension cords each year, killing 50 people and injuring about 270 others. The most frequent causes of such fires are short circuits, overloading, damage, and/or misuse of extension cords. THE PROBLEMFollowing are CPSC investigations of injuries that illustrate the major accident patterns associated with extension cords, namely children putting extension cords in their mouths, overloaded cords, worn or damaged cords, and tripping over cords:A 15-month-old girl put an extension cord In her mouth and suffered an electrical burn. She required surgery. Two young children were injured In a fire caused by an overloaded extension cord in their family's home. A lamp, TV set, and electric heater had been plugged Into a single, light-duty extension cord. A 65-year old woman was treated for a fractured ankle after tripping over an extension cord. |
THE STANDARDSThe National Electrical Code says that many cord-connected appliances should be equipped with polarized grounding type plugs. Polarized plugs have one blade slightly wider than the other and can only be inserted one way into the outlet. Polarization and grounding ensure that certain parts of appliances that could have a higher risk of electric shock when they become live are instead connected to the neutral, or grounded, side of the circuit. Such electrical products should only be used with polarized or grounding type extension cords.Voluntary industry safety standards, including those of Underwriters Laboratories Inc.(UL), now require that general use extension cords have safety closures, warning labels, rating information about the electrical current, and other added features for the protection of children and other consumers. In addition, UL-listed extension cords now must be constructed with #16 gauge or larger wire, or be equipped with integral fuses. The #16 gauge wire is rated to carry 13 amperes (up to 1560 watts), as compared to the formerly-used # 18 gauge cords that were rated for 10 amperes (up to 1200 watts). |
SAFETY SUGGESTIONS
| CPSC has the following recommendations for the purchase and safe use of extension cords: * Use extension cords only when necessary and only on a temporary basis. * Use polarized extension cords with polarized appliances. * Make sure cords do not dangle from the counter or table tops where they can be pulled down or tripped over. * Replace cracked or worn extension cords with new. #16 gauge cords that have the listing, of a nationally-recognized testing laboratory, safety closures, and other safety features. * With cords lacking safety closures, cover any unused outlets with electrical tape or with plastic caps to prevent the chance of a child making contact with the live circuit. * Insert plugs fully so that no part of the prongs are exposed when the extension cord is in use. * When disconnecting cords, pull the plug rather than the cord itself. * Teach children not to play with plugs and outlets. * Use only three-wire extension cords for appliances with three-prong plugs. Never remove the third (round or U-shaped) prong, which is a safety feature designed to reduce the risk of shock and electrocution. |
* In locations where furniture or beds may be pushed against an extension cord where the cord joins the plug, use a special "angle extension cord," which is specifically designed for use in these instances. * Check the plug and the body of the extension cord while the cord is in use. Noticeable warming of these plastic parts is expected when cords are being used at their maximum rating, however, if the cord feels hot or if there is a softening of the plastic, this is a warning that the plug wires or connections are failing and that the extension cord should be discarded and replaced. * Never use an extension cord while it is coiled or looped. Never cover any part of an extension cord with newspapers, clothing, rugs, or any objects while the cord is in use. Never place an extension cord where it is likely to be damaged by heavy furniture or foot traffic. * Don't use staples or nails to attach extension cords to a baseboard or to another surface. This could damage the cord and present a shock or fire hazard. * Don't overload extension cords by plugging in appliances that draw a total of more watts than the rating of the cord. * Use special, heavy duty extension cords for high wattage appliances such as air conditioners, portable electric heaters, and freezers. * When using outdoor tools and appliances, use only extension cords labeled for outdoor use. |
| Electrical receptacle outlets in walls and floors may present shock and electrical fire hazards to consumers. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that 3,900 injuries associated with electrical receptacle outlets are treated in hospital emergency rooms each year. Approximately a third of these injuries occur when young children insert metal objects, such as hair pins and keys, into the outlet, resulting in electric shock or burn injuries to the hand or finger. CPSC also estimates that electric receptacles are involved in 5,300 fires annually which claim 40 lives and injured 110 consumers. Older homes may have receptacles which are damaged or which, otherwise, may have deteriorated over the years. In one case of a damaged receptacle, a woman suffered severe burns to her hand as she was plugging in a floor lamp. Part of the plastic faceplate of the outlet had broken away, allowing the prongs of the plug to bridge from the electrical contacts to the grounded strap, resulting in intense electrical arcing. Outlets also deteriorate from repeated use, from plugging-in and unplugging appliances as is often done in kitchens and bathrooms. As a result, when plugs fit loosely into receptacles, especially the two-prong ungrounded type, they may slip partially or completely out of the receptable |
with only slight movement of the attached cord. Receptacles in this condition may overheat and pose a serious fire hazard; if covered by a curtain or drape, the fire hazard is even greater. Consumers should have a qualified person replace deteriorated and damaged receptacles and, at the same time, upgrade their home electrical system to present safety standards. The simplest and most effective method to protect against electrocution is through the installation of ground- fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) (as shown in FIGURE 3). If you wish to receive a copy of the Commission's fact sheet on GFCls, send a postcard to "Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters, Washington, D.C. 20207," and a copy will be sent promptly. Another method of protection in the home is to install 3-wire receptacles which will accept either 2- or 3-prong plugs (as shown in FIGURE 2). This method, however, requires a grounding conductor which may or may not be available in the outlet box. The least acceptable method is installing another 2-wire receptacle that requires the use of an adapter for accepting 3-wire plugs (as shown in FIGURE 1). Even thought the tab on the adapter may be properly connected to the cover-plate screw, the grounding path may not be adequate to protect against ground faults. |

Outlets with poor internal contacts or loose wire terminals may become overheated and emit sparks. Even a receptacle with nothing plugged into it may run hot if it is passing current through to other outlets on the same circuit. To prevent damage to receptacles, appliances should be switched-off before unplugging from a receptacle.
|
|
Newer Hair Dryers Prevent Electrocutions
CPSC Document #5037
| The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends that consumers buy hair dryers that comply with the voluntary standard (effective January 1, 1991) that gives added protection against electrocution. To comply with the voluntary standard, hand-held hair dryers must protect against electrocution if they fall into water with the switch in either the "on" or "off" position. CPSC cautions that regardless of the improved protection, under no circumstances should consumers use a hair dryer where it could come in contact with water. Electricity and water are a potentially deadly combination, and in their presence children should always be supervised. In the early 1980's an average of 18 electrocutions each year were caused by hand-held hair dryers falling or being pulled into water. That number has fallen to approximately 4 deaths per year since the voluntary standard to prevent electrocution went into effect. However, the CPSC |
estimates that there are millions of hair dryers still in use that do not provide any protection from electrocution in water. These older hair dryers continue to pose the risk of electrocution in bathrooms and other locations around water where permanent or portable ground-fault circuit-interrupters (GFCls) are not used. Some hair dryers made before 1991 provide only partial protection from electrocution, in that they provide protection only when the switch is in the "off" position. These hair dryers may still be sold. CPSC encourages consumers to purchase the newer hair dryers that comply with the voluntary standards and thus provide the added measure of safety. For broad protection from electrocution at home, CPSC recommends having GFCls installed in wall outlets in bathrooms, kitchens, basements, outdoor circuits, and garages by an electrician, or buying portable plug-in GFCls that can be moved from outlet to outlet. GFCls are widely available at building supply houses, electrical supply houses, and hardware stores. |

Consumer Product Safety Commission
Use a Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter With Electric Heaters in the Bathroom
CPSC Document #5038| The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends the use of a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) to protect against electrical shock hazards when electric heaters are used in bathrooms. CPSC knows of seven electrocution deaths since 1985 in which electric heaters fell into bathtubs and killed people. Electricity and water do not mix - consumers should keep electric heaters away from water. Most of these deaths could have been prevented by the use of a GFCI. GFCls are the most effective means for protecting consumers against electrical shock. A GFCI constantly monitors current flowing in a circuit to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through two circuit conductors differs by a very small amount, the GFCI instantly interrupts the current flow to prevent a lethal amount of electricity from reaching the consumer. The consumer may feel a painful shock but will not be electrocuted. Since 1973, homes built according to the National Electrical Code have varying degrees of GFCI protection GFCls were first required in outdoor receptacles in 1973, in bathroom receptacles in 1975, in garage wall receptacles in 1978, in some kitchen receptacles in 1987, and in all receptacles in unfinished basements and crawl spaces in 1990. ![]() |
Three common types of GFCIs are available for home use circuit breakers, receptacles and portable plug-ins. Circuit breaker GFCIs require installation by an electrician. Receptacle GFCIs can be installed by consumers with knowledge of electrical wiring practices. Portable plug-in GFCIs require no special knowledge to install. They plug into wall receptacles; electrical appliances are then plugged into them. Portable plug-in GFCls are generally priced below $30 and are available at hardware stores, building supply centers, and electrical supply houses. If you are considering the purchase of a heater and intend to use it in a bathroom, laundry area or similar indoor locations, look for models now specifically designed and certified by an independent testing laboratory for such uses. Even though such products are provided with built-in protection, never place your heater where it could easily fall into water. ![]() ELECTROCUTION HAZARD
|
Consumer Product Safety Commission
Safety Alert
Install Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection for Pools, Spas and Hot Tubs
CPSC Document #5039| The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends installing and using ground-fault circuit-interrupters (GFCIs) for protection against electrocution hazards involving electrical circuits and underwater lighting circuits in and around pools, spas, and hot tubs. CPSC is aware of more than a dozen electrocutions and a similar number of electrical shock incidents involving circuits around swimming pools between 1997 and 2002. Electrical incidents involving underwater pool lighting were more numerous than those involving any other consumer product used in or around pools, spas, and hot tubs. The greater danger associated with electrical shock in a swimming pool is that anyone in the pool may be rendered immobile and unable to rescue themselves or to call for help. Drowning becomes a likely outcome, even if the current is not immediately lethal. Bystanders and would-be rescuers risk serious injury if the current flow isn't stopped before they make contact with a conductive fixture, such as a ladder, or enter the water to try to help a victim. While grounding provides essential protection for pool, spa, and hot tub equipment, GFCIs are the most effective means for protecting people against electrical shock hazards of this nature. A GFCI constantly monitors the flow of current through a protected lighting fixture, pump motor or appliance circuit and senses any loss of current to an outside path. If the current flowing into an electrical appliance or fixture differs by a very small amount from what flows |
back out, the GFCI instantly interrupts the current flow to prevent a sustained, lethal level of electricity from reaching the consumer. The consumer may feel a painful shock but should be protected from electrocution. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires GFCI protection for cord- and plug-connected pumps on pools, spas, and hot tubs; 120-volt underwater lighting fixtures; and receptacle outlets in the vicinity of pools, spas and hot tubs. Today, the code prohibits electrical installations closer than five feet from water and requires GFCI protection for all electrical equipment, including 240-volt equipment located five to 10 feet from the water and for receptacles within a 20-foot perimeter. Older pools, spas and hot tubs may not have adequate GFCI protection. In particular, pools older than 30 years may not have GFCI protection on underwater lighting circuits. Because the NEC provision for spas only became effective in 1981, even somewhat newer spas or hot tubs may not be protected. CPSC urges consumers to have an electrician who is qualified in pool and spa repairs install adequate GFCI protection for all pool, spa, and hot tub electrical equipment and for underwater swimming pool lighting fixtures. Additionally, outdoor outlets that could potentially be used to plug in electrical appliances (e.g., radios, pumps, washers) used near the pool also should be equipped with GFCI protection. Remember to test the GFCI regularly to be assured of continued protection. |
TO PREVENT ELECTROCUTION:
- Install GFCIs
- On underwater lighting circuits operating at more than 15 volts.
- On all electrical equipment used with pools, spas and hot tubs, including heaters operated on 240-volt circuits.
- On all outdoor receptacles and any indoor receptacles that could potentially be used to power electrical appliances within 20 feet of the water's edge.
- In accordance with applicable local codes and the NEC.
- On underwater lighting circuits operating at more than 15 volts.
- Test GFCIs monthly to assure continued protection. Infrequently used and portable or cord-connected GFCIs should be tested before each day's use.
- To test a GFCI:
- Plug a nightlight into the outlet and turn it on.
- Press the "TEST" button. Did the light go out? If not, replace the GFCI.
- Press the "RESET" button. Did the light come back on? If not, replace the GFCI.
- Plug a nightlight into the outlet and turn it on.

Consumer Product Safety Commission
Use a Ground-Fault Circuit-interrupter With Every Power Tool
CPSC Document #5040| The U S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) recommends the use of a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) with every power tool to protect against electrical shock hazards. Each year, CPSC learns of approximately 20 to 30 electrocution deaths associated with power drills, saws, sanders, hedge trimmers, and other electric power tools. Most of these deaths could be prevented by the use of a GFCI. A GFCI constantly monitors current flowing in a circuit to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through two circuit conductors differs by a very small amount, the GFCI instantly interrupts the current flow to prevent a lethal amount of electricity from reaching the consumer. The consumer may feet a painful shock but will not be electrocuted. Grounding may provide some protection for power equipment and double insulation of newer power tools presents lower risks of electrocution. However, GFCls are the most effective means for protecting consumers against electrical shock hazards. Since 1973, homes built according to the National Electrical Code have varying degrees of GFCI protection. GFCIs were first required in outdoor receptacle circuits In 1973, bathrooms in 1975, garage wall outlets in 1978, some kitchen receptacles since 1987, and all receptacle outlets in unfinished basements and crawl spaces since 1990. Three common types of GFCls are available for home use: circuit breaker, receptacle and portable types. The circuit breaker type needs to be installed by an electrician. The receptacle type may be installed by knowledgeable consumers familiar with electrical wiring practices. The portable GFCI needs no special knowledge to install Just plug the portable GFCI Into a wall receptacle and then plug the electric power tool into the GFCI. It is generally priced below $30 and is available at hardware stores, building supply centers and electrical supply houses. |
![]() ![]() ELECTROCUTION HAZARD
|
Consumer Product Safety Commission
Metal Ladders and Electricity Don't Mix
CPSC Document #5060
CPSC warns that consumers can be electrocuted when they use metal ladders near overhead wires. Consumers often use metal ladders near overhead wires to clean gutters, paint structures, trim trees, and repair roofs and chimneys.
Based on the latest statistics available, CPSC estimates that 65 people died each year between 1985 and 1989 from electrocution when someone was using a metal ladder which contacted an electrical wire in or around the home.
Electrocutions often occur when:
Consumers move metal ladders which accidentally touch an overhead electrical wire near the house or street. Metal ladders conduct electricity, which can kill anyone touching the ladder.
- Metal ladders shift postion. Wind, uneven ground or reaching to the side while on the ladder can cause the ladder or person to contact an overhead wire.
- Consumers use metal ladders while handling an improperly grounded power tool or contacting an electrical source, such as a light socket.
- Metal stepladders and extension ladders meeting Underwriters Laboratories and American National Standards Institute voluntary standards have labels warning about this hazard. The labels typically state with words and graphic:
'Danger! Metal conducts electricity! Keep ladder away from power lines and live electrical wires.'
Despite these and other warnings, electrocutions still occur each year. To avoid this hazard, CPSC advises you to use a ladder, that does not conduct electricity, such as fiberglass or wood, when working near overhead wires.
If you must use a metal ladder, follow these precautions:
1. Carefully check the location of all overhead wires before using a ladder, especially where the lines connect to the house. Any powerline (including the line running from the street to your house) can permit electricity to flow into a piece of metal or 3 other object, such as a wet tree branch, that touches it.
Powerlines and phone lines often appear similar. Assume all overhead wires carry electricity. Some overhead lines are coated to extend the life of the line. The coating is not intended to protect against electrocution.
2. Lower the ladder when carrying or moving it, to avoid touching an overhead wire. Since long ladders can be unwieldy, have someone help carry and set up the ladder.
3. Never work on a windy day a gust of wind can cause the ladder to shift and touch an overhead wire.
4. Never place a ladder where it could slide into an overhead line. Make sure the distance to the nearest overhead line is at least twice the length of the ladder.
5. Place the ladder's feet on solid, level ground before climbing it. When the ground is not level or is soft, put a flat piece of wood under one or both feet of the ladder to provide a solid, level base. If possible, tieoff the ladder to prevent it from moving.
6. If the ladder should start to fall into an overhead line, let it go. Never try to move it. Do not leave the ladder unattended Have someone call the power company and ask them to cut off electricity to the line, before you move the ladder. If someone is holding the ladder when it contacts the overhead line, never try to pull them away with your hands. Use something that does not conduct electricity, such as a long piece of dry wood or rope, to push or pull them loose.
For more information about electrical safety and a Home Electrical Safety Audit, write CPSC, Washington, DC 20207 or e-mail CPSC at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . You may also obtain information from your local utility company or call the Consumer Product Safety Commission's toll free hotline at 1-800-638-CPSC. A teletypewriter number for the hearing-impaired is 1-800-638-8270.
U.S. Consumer Product Safety CommissionRepairing Aluminum Wiring(US CPSC) Publication #516REPAIRING ALUMINUM WIRING
CPSC #516
U.S. Consumer Product
Safety Commission
Washington DC 20207
ALUMINUM WIRING
° On April, 28,1974, two persons died in a home fire in Hampton
Bays, New York. Fire officials determined that the fire was caused by a
faulty aluminum wire connection at an outlet.
° Since that tragic accident, the U.S. Consumer Product Safety
Commission staff and other government officials have investigated
numerous complaints from homeowners throughout the nation who
have had trouble with small gauge aluminum branch circuit wiring. The
Commission has also had research conducted that shows that homes
wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 ("old technology"
aluminum wire) are 55 times more likely to have one or more
connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than is a home wired
with copper.
° The hazard investigated by the Commission staff occurs at
connections to old technology aluminum wire, such as at outlets or
switches or at major appliances such as dishwashers, furnaces, etc.
Corrosion of the metals in the connection, particularly the aluminum
wire itself, causes increased resistance to the flow of electric current
and that resistance causes overheating.
° Homes built before 1965 are unlikely to have aluminum branch
circuit wiring. Homes built, rooms added, and circuits rewired or added
between 1965 and 1973 may contain aluminum wiring.
° In 1972, manufacturers modified both aluminum wire and switches
and outlets to improve the performance of aluminum wired
connections. Sale of the old style wire, switches and outlets still on
dealers' shelves however, continued after 1972.
TROUBLE SIGNS
° Signs of trouble in aluminum wire systems include warm-to-the-
touch face plates on outlets or switches, flickering lights, circuits that
don't work, or the smell of burning plastic at outlets or switches.
Unfortunately, not all failing aluminum wired connections provide such
easily detected warning signs; aluminum wired connections have
been reported to fail without any prior indications or problems.
1 (footnote) The survey conducted by the Franklin Research Institute defined
"Fire Hazard Conditions" to occur when receptacle cover plate mounting screws
reached 149~C (3O0~F), or sparks were emitted from the receptacle, or materials
around the receptacle were charred.
WHAT THE HOMEOWNER CAN DO
° If you have noticed any of the trouble signs, have a qualified
electrician determine whether the problem is caused by deteriorating
connections to aluminum wiring. DO NOT TRY TO DO IT YOURSELF.
You could be electrocuted or you could make the connections worse
by disturbing them. If you are not certain whether your home has
aluminum branch circuit wiring, you may be able to tell by looking at the
markings on the surface of The electric cables which are visible in
unfinished basements, attics or garages. Aluminum wiring will have
"Al" or "Aluminum" marked every few feet along the length of the
cable. (Note - The marking "CU-clad" or "Copper-clad" in addition to
the "Al" or "Aluminum" means that the cable uses copper-coated
aluminum wire and is not covered by this message.)
° If you do have aluminum branch circuit wiring, the Commission
suggests that you have a qualified electrician check the system for
impending trouble. Remember, you may not have noticed any of the
warning signs, but research shows that trouble may develop over time
and an electrician may spot potential problems before you notice
them.
CAN THE PROBLEM BE FIXED?
° One method of eliminating the risks associated with old
technology aluminum wiring terminations is to eliminate the primary
cause: the aluminum wire itself. Depending upon the architectural
style of your home and the number and locations of unfinished spaces
(e.g., basements and attics), it may be relatively easy to rewire your
home. A new copper wire branch circuit system would be installed,
and the existing aluminum wire would be abandoned inside the walls.
This is the most expensive method of repairing an aluminum wired
home; but if you can afford the cost, it is also the best method
available.
° Since it may be impractical to rewire some types of aluminum wired
homes (e.g., condominium units), or since rewiring may be
prohibitively expensive for some homes (e.g., split-levels with no
unfinished areas), the Commission staff attempted to find a repair
method which would permit the continued use of existing old
technology aluminum wire. The main criteria to be met by such a repair
method are:
<> It must permit the repair of every connection to, or splice
between, aluminum wire in the home;
<> The repaired connections must be permanent but must result
in a system that can be maintained without the need for special
switches, wall outlets or other connectors;
<> The repair technique must be practical for use in an occupied
and furnished home.
° The CPSC-sponsored research, laboratory tests, and
demonstration projects identified only one method of repairing
existing aluminum wire circuits which meet these criteria. That repair is
known as the crimp connector repair.
° The crimp connector repair consists of attaching a piece of copper
wire to the existing aluminum wire branch circuit with a specially
designed metal sleeve and powered crimping tool. The metal sleeve
is called a COPALUM parallel splice connector and is manufactured
only by AMP Incorporated. This special connector can be properly
installed only with the matching AMP tool. This tool makes a
permanent connection that is, in effect, a cold weld. An insulating
sleeve is placed around the crimp connector to complete the repair.
Recommended COPALUM Crimp Connector Repair
° Two other repair methods are often recommended by electricians.
While these repair methods are substantially less expensive than
COPALUM crimp connectors, neither of these repairs is considered
acceptable by the Commission staff.
° The first repair ("pig tailing") involves attaching a short piece of
copper wire to the aluminum wire with a twist-on connector sometimes
called a wire nut; the copper wire is connected to the switch, wall outlet
or other termination device. The Commission staff has evaluated the
effectiveness of "pig tailing" as a repair. In OPSO-sponsored laboratory
testing some brands of twist-on connectors have performed very
poorly. Over time, substantial numbers of these connectors have
overheated in laboratory tests. Surveys of and statements made by
electricians and electrical inspectors confirm the highly variable and
often poor performance of these connectors when used with old
technology aluminum wire. It is possible that some pig tailing "repairs"
made with twist-on connectors may be even more prone to failure than
the original aluminum wire connections. Accordingly, the Commission
staff believes that this method of repair does not solve the problem of
overheating present in aluminum branch circuits.
"Pig tailing' Is Not a Recommended Repair
° The other repair recommended by the industry uses switches and
outlets labeled "CO(ALR". Underwriters Laboratories Inc. (UL) lists
these devices especially for use with aluminum wire, although they
can be used with copper or copper-clad wire. OO/ALR devices
perform better with aluminum wire when installed carefully and
according to best electrical practices than do the types of switches and
outlets usually used in the original installations of old technology
aluminum branch circuit wiring. However, CO/ALP connectors are not
available for all pat of the wiring system (for example, for
permanently-wired appliances and ceiling mounted light fixtures). In
the opinion of the Commission staff CO/ALR devices must be
considered to be, at best, an incomplete repair. Further, CO/ALP
wiring devices have failed in laboratory tests when connected to
aluminum wire typical of that installed in existing homes. The test
conditions simulated actual use conditions; no "overstress" type of
testing was used.
° Exception: If you have an aluminum wire termination in your home
which exhibits symptoms of failure, twist-on connector pigtails or
CO/ALR devices may be used as an emergency temporary repair for a
failed aluminum termination. Should such a repair be performed, the
Commission staff recommends that you arrange to have your home
rewired or the COPALUM crimp connector repair performed as soon
as possible.
° It is important to note that there is only one manufacturer of the
special connectors and the tools required to make the repairs as
recommended by the CPSC staff.
WARNING
° There are many other brands and types of crimp connectors -
including those intended to be installed with a pliers type of hand tool -
which are readily available to consumers at hardware stores, lumber
yards, hobby supply stores, automotive supply stores, and so forth.
THE COMMISSION STAFF DOES NOT BELIEVE THAT THESE
COMMON VARIETIES OF CRIMP CONNECTORS CAN BE USED TO
RELIABLY REPAIR ALUMINUM Wiring.
THE COPALUM CRIMP METHOD OF REPAIR
° The precision dies in the COPALUM tool squeeze the connector
and wires into a particular shape which was determined during the
design of the COPALUM wire connector. Both the final shape of the
connection and the amount that it is squeezed (deformed during
crimping) are critical in making a reliable crimp connection. Upwards of
10,000 pounds of force is necessary to obtain the amount of
deformation for which the connector is designed.
° In addition, electricians who are authorized to install COPALUM
connectors are thoroughly trained by the manufacturer to use the tool
properly. The Commission staff emphasizes that this training is
necessary to assure that the electrician uses the careful, professional
workmanship required to make the crimp connector repair safe and
reliable.
How the COPALUM Crimp Method Works
CRIMPING PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below with attention given to steps 1 thru 4.
(1) Use the correct tool and dies (recommended by the AMP
field representative) for the splice being crimped. Ensure
that the color coding and marking designation on the splice
correspond to the color coding and marking designation on
the tool.
(2) Be sure the perforated liner is inside the splice. The ends of
the liner are flared to prevent removal.
(3) Load the splice into the dies of the tool.
(4) Insert stripped wires into the splice until the ends of wires
extend beyond end of the splice. Wires should be parallel in
the splice. Insulation of the wire MUST NOT ENTER the
splice.
° You should request a copy of AMP literature from your electrician
prior to his beginning work. Discuss with your electrician any
information in the literature which you do not understand. Remember,
every connection of aluminum-to-aluminum or aluminum-to-copper
wire in your home should be repaired in order to obtain the maximum
benefit from such repair work.
° All appliances connected directly to #12 or #10 AWG aluminum
branch circuit wiring (for example, dishwashers, cooking equipment,
heaters, air conditioners and light fixtures) must be repaired in addition
to wall outlets, switches, junction boxes and panel boxes.
° To determine whether the COPALUM crimp connection method
of repair is available in your area, you may wish to write or call the
manufacturer of the COPALUM connector for a list of authorized
electricians who are doing aluminum branch circuit repair work in your
area. You may write to:
AMP Incorporated
Attn: Aluminum Wire Repair Program
Mail Stop 140-13
P.O. Box 3608
Harrisburg, PA 17105-3608
PHONE: 1-800-522-6752
° The Commission staff wishes to remind you that all modifications
and additions to your wiring system should be done in accordance
with local regulations and inspected by municipal authorities. You
should insist that repairs to your aluminum wiring be inspected.
For further information write to:
U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION
WASHINGTON, D.C. 20207
TOLL FREE HOTLINE: 800-638-CPSC OR 800-638-2772
TTY (INCLUDING ALASKA AND HAWAII) 800-638-8270
TTY MARYLAND ONLY 8O0-492-8104
REGIONAL OFFICE ADDRESSES
CENTRAL REGIONAL CENTER
230 SOUTH DEARBORN ST.
ROOM 2944
CHICAGO, IL 60604
(312) 353-8260
EASTERN REGIONAL CENTER
6 WORLD TRADE CENTER
VESEY STREET, 3RD FLOOR
NEW YORK, NY 10048
(212) 264-1125
WESTERN Regional CENTER
555 BATTERY STREET
ROOM 415
SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94111
(415) 556-1816
CPSC RESIDENT POSTS
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS' BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT~ BUFFALO,
NEW YORK 'CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA 'CINCINNATI, OHIO~
CLEVELAND, OHIO 'DENVER. COLORADO' DETROIT, MICHIGAN'
HONOLULU, HAWAII ' HOUSTON, TEXAS ' INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA'
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI' LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA' FT.
LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA' MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN ' NEW ORLEANS,
LOUISIANA' ORLANDO, FLORIDA PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA'
PHOENIX, ARIZONA' PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA' PORTLAND,
OREGON' ROCKVILLE, MARYLAND. SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO'
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON ',ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI' ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA
TULSA, OKLAHOMA
THE U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY COMMISSION (CPSC) IS AN INDEPENDENT
REGULATORY AGENCY CHARGED WITH REDUCING UNREASONABLE RISKS OF INJURY
ASSOCIATED WITH CONSUMER PRODUCTS. THE U.S. CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY
COMMISSION IS HEADED BY FIVE COMMISSIONERS APPOINTED BY THE PRESIDENT
WITH THE ADVICE AND CONSENT O THE SENATE
AWREPAIR.TXT - from CPSC Pub #516
Updated 5/05/01 Created 6/7/95 -- FILEID: awrepair.htm
|
For more information
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/elec_sfy.html
http://www.firesafety.gov/directory/public/electrical.shtm
http://www.heimer.com/information/electric_service.html
http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files//PDF/Proceedings/Lee_presentation.pdf
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/518.pdf






All GFCIs should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and are protecting you from fatal shock. GFCIs should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit.


